Garments Manufacturing Process Sequence

Sequence of garments manufacturing

Maruf Mahfuz
Operations Officer
H.R Textile Mills Limited, Pride Group
Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com
Cell no: 01738676060

1. Design/ Sketch: 

 It in given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurement of all components.
2. Basic Block:  

Basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

3. Working Pattern: 

The pattern set which is used for sample making is called working pattern.
4. Sample Making: 

 After getting all the specification the sample is mode and sent to the buyer for approval or to rectify the faults.
5. Basic Manufacturing Difficulties:  

The critical path is identified, that is the problems during production are simplified.
6. Approved Sample:  

After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyer, If it is OK then it is called approved sample.
7. Costing: 

 fabric consumption, making charge, Trimmings, Profit.
8. Production Pattern: 

 Add allowance with set dimension.
9. Grading:  

By following working pattern approved sample is made for medium size. It the buyer require different size. We have to grade the dimension. It may be S, L, M, XL, XXL, etc.
10. Marker Making: 

 Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style.
11. Fabric Spreading: 

 To spread the fabric on the cutting table properly for cutting.
12. Cutting:  

To cut fabric according to marker dimension.
13. Sorting & Bundling:  

Sorting out the component according to size & for each size make individual bundle.
14. Sewing: 

Sewing is done by different types of machine by the operator. Quality inspection is also done in that time.
15. Ironing & Finishing:  

Garments are treated by steam. Also several finishing process are done for example- extra loom thread cutting.
16. Final Inspection: Should meet specification given by buyers
17. Packing:   Poly packing
18. Cartoning:  

After packing the garments are placed in a hand paper box for export so as to minimize damage. The cartoons contain all the information over the box according to buyer’s instruction.
19. Sent to Buyers: 

 If everything is OK. It is sent to the Buyers.

Different Sections in a garments Industry

There are mainly four sections in a garments industry.

• Sample section
• Cutting section
• Sewing section
• Finishing Section

(1) Sample section: this section includes designing to marker making. The main function of this section is to make approved sample.
(2) Cutting section: This section includes process starting from “marker making to sorting & bundling” to cut fabric according to marker dimension is the main function of this section.
(3) Sewing section: This section includes only sewing. The function of this section is to make complete garments by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.
(4) Finishing Section: This section includes process from “Ironing to sent to buyer’s, after making garments. It should treated by steam. Iron & use in it all of the finishing accessories & ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyer’s approved sample.

Some Definitions & Terms

Sample Garments:

Before going to star bulk production at first we have to make small quantity of garments which is sent to buyer for approval, these garments are called Sample garments.
Sample is always make upon medium size & it is quantity is at least 3-5 pieces or as per buyer’s requirements.

Approved Sample:

The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Counter Sample:

 To run the production smoothly we made the some Extra sample. Which represents 100% same as approved sample this is called Counter Sample.

Product Package: 

Product Package is a sheet or no. of sheets which includes the following

• Design / Sketch
• Specification sheet or Measurement sheet
• Label Positioning
• Accessories required
• Stitch type

Pattern: 

Pattern is the replica of various separate components of a garment. These patterns are placed on fabric or on this paper (marker paper) to associate in fabric cutting.

Working Pattern:

The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern.
It is made for a particular style with net dimension working pattern is also called garments pattern.

Production pattern:

 production pattern is the patterns made for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

Marker: 

Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garment in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.

Numbering: 

The process of identifying different fabric lay in a fabric lay out by numbering (1, 2, 3……..) them is called Numbering.

Numbering is two Type:

Lay Numbering: for maintaining shade.
Pieces Numbering: to assemble to Specific Size.

Sewing: 

Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing is the way of joining of garments components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments assembling & still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam.

Objects of sewing: 

The objective of sewing is the construction of the seam of required standard and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.

Seam:  

Seam is the join between two or more plies of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but welding adhesive one often used for making seam.
In another way seam can be defined as seam is the application of a series of stitches on stitch type to one or several pitches of material.

Requirement of garments assembling/ sewing:

Cutting fabric components: 

All parts of a particular garment should at first be available before sewing.

Need same numbering cut pieces:  

At first all components of a particular lay of fabric should be given same number. For example, all the component of 3rd lay is given number 3 then the same numbered components are used for making a garment. That is number 3 pocket in joined with number 3 back part and with number 3 sleeves and so on. We should not joined a component of a lay with another component of different lay. This is maintained for avoiding shade variation in garment. Because the shade of fabric may differ from lay to lay and if such shade variation is occurred. The garment will be rejected.

DTM sewing thread:  

Dye to match (DTM) sewing thread is essential for sewing, because the colure of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye of both thread and fabric should be same. Otherwise are will be faded us before the other. After the sewing thread being available garment manufacturing is started.
All accessories must be available: For making garments several accessories are required. For example- Zipper, Button, Interlining etc are required. They should be available.

Proper needle selection: 

For sewing particular garment. Proper needle should be of proper size and point. For sewing knitted fabric the needle should be of ball point and for sewing woven fabric shaped V- pointed needle should be used.

Seam Performance:

Performance of seam means the achievement of perfect strength, elasticity, durability, security & comfort along with any special fabric properties like flammability & waterproofing. Performance of seam means achievement of following qualities..

• Seam strength
• Seam elasticity
• Seam durability
• Security of seam
• Comfort of seam

1) Seam strength:

Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than the fabric strength then the fabric may tear due to unexpected force applied or the fabric seam strength depends on

• Strength of the thread used.
• Stitch density.
• Seam type.

2) Seam Elasticity: 

The seam should be equal or higher elastic then the fabric, otherwise when force will be applied fabric will be stretched more than the sewing thread & sewing thread may tear and seam may be opened. Seam elasticity varies depending on the types of fabric. That is knitted or woven.

3) Seam Durability:

Durability of seam should be equal or higher than the fabric, especially the seam should not be damaged or worm out due to friction and while cleaning.

4) Security of Seam:

While using the garments, the seam thread should not be torn or opened.

5) Comfortness of seam:

In close fitting or undergarments, seam must not present an uncomfortable ridge or roughness to the skin.

Seam Allowance:  

A predetermined amount of fabric between the edge of component parts of the garments and the seam line. Too small a seam allowance greatly reduces the seam strength. A seam allowance is measured from the cut-edge of fabric to the main line of stitches. Excessive seam allowance results in fabric wastage.

New Product Development- Part 1

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Maruf Mahfuz 

Operations officer

H.R Textile Mills Limited, Pride Group.

Cell no: 01738676060 

Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com

In business and engineering, new product development (NPD) is the term used to describe the complete process of bringing a new product to market. A product is a set of benefits offered for exchange and can be tangible (that is, something physical you can touch) or intangible (like a service, experience, or belief). There are two parallel paths involved in the NPD process: one involves the idea generation, product design and detail engineering; the other involves market research and marketing analysis. Companies typically see new product development as the first stage in generating and commercializing new products within the overall strategic process of product life cycle management used to maintain or grow their market share.

New Product Development Process .

Introducing new products on a consistent basis is important to the future success of many organizations, marketers in charge of product decisions often follow set procedures for bringing products to market. In the scientific area that may mean the establishment of ongoing laboratory research programs for discovering new products (e.g., medicines) while less scientific companies may pull together resources for product development on a less structured time-table.

In this section we present a 7-step process comprising the key elements of new product development. While some companies may not follow a deliberate step-by-step approach, the steps are useful in showing the information input and decision making that must be done in order to successfully develop new products. The process also shows the importance market research plays in developing products.

We should note that while the 7-step process works for most industries, it is less effective in developing radically new products. The main reason lies in the inability of the target market to provide sufficient feedback on advanced product concepts since they often find it difficult to understand radically different ideas. So while many of these steps are used to research breakthrough ideas, the marketer should exercise caution when interpreting the results. 

Process of new product development

Idea Generation► Idea screening ►Concept Development & Testing ►Marketing Strategy ►Business analysis ►Product Development ►Test marketing ►Commercialization.

Our selected Product :

Name: Kolaveri D
Type : (Ladies Dress).
Target Customer: Young ladies (age between16-25).
Target Area: Dhaka & Divisional city. 

Idea Generation

First of all we have taken a lot of idea by the determination of public response from the various classes of people. Then we are gone for our natural process of new product development. We have gathered a lot of idea such as-

- Chikni chameli (Ladies dress - Lehanga).

-Body Tex (Mens wear Like Ankhon suit).
-Kolaveri D (Ladies dress like a Gown in lower part, upper part with a Hoody top made by jeans fabric).
-Kuhelika (Teenage tops)
-Rimjhim (Upper part like frock and lower part like saree).

Idea Generation is often called the "fuzzy front end" of the NPD process. Ideas for new products can be obtained from basic research using a SWOT analysis (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities & Threats), Market and consumer trends, company's R&D department, competitors, focus groups, employees, salespeople, corporate spies, trade shows, or Ethnographic discovery methods (searching for user patterns and habits) may also be used to get an insight into new product lines or product features. Regarding to this process we have done a SWOT analysis to find out our desired idea by researching from our Human resource development.
Lots of ideas are being generated about the new product. Out of these ideas many ideas are being implemented. The ideas use to generate in many forms and their generating places are also various. Many reasons are responsible for generation of an idea.
Idea Generation or Brainstorming of new product, service, or store concepts - idea generation techniques can begin when you have done your opportunity analysis to support your ideas in the Idea Screening Phase (shown in the next development step). 

The first step of new product development requires gathering ideas to be evaluated as potential product options. For many companies idea generation is an ongoing process with contributions from inside and outside the organization. Many market research techniques are used to encourage ideas including: running focus groups with consumers, channel members, and the company’s sales force; encouraging customer comments and suggestions via toll-free telephone numbers and website forms; and gaining insight on competitive product developments through secondary data sources. One important research technique used to generate ideas is brainstorming where open-minded, creative thinkers from inside and outside the company gather and share ideas. The dynamic nature of group members floating ideas, where one idea often sparks another idea, can yield a wide range of possible products that can be further pursue. 

Idea Screening

The object is to eliminate unsound concepts prior to devoting resources to them.
The screeners should ask several questions:

• Will the customer in the target market benefit from the product? 

• What is the size and growth forecasts of the market segment/target market? 

• What is the current or expected competitive pressure for the product idea? 

•  What are the industry sales and market trends the product idea is based on? 

•  Is it technically feasible to manufacture the product? 

• Will the product be profitable when manufactured and delivered to the customer at the target price? 

By analyzing the above question we have decided to choose the product called “Kolaveri D”.

Depending on the number of ideas, screening may be done in rounds with the first round involving company executives judging the feasibility of ideas while successive rounds may utilize more advanced research techniques. As the ideas are whittled down to a few attractive options, rough estimates are made of an idea’s potential in terms of sales, production costs, profit potential, and competitors’ response if the product is introduced.

Concept Development and Testing

Here we have to make a physical or practical body of the concept on the basis of following points.
Develop the marketing and engineering details. Investigate intellectual property issues and search patent data bases.

• Who is the target market and who is the decision maker in the purchasing process? 

• What product features must the product incorporate? 

• What benefits will the product provide? 

• How will consumers react to the product? 

• How will the product be produced most cost effectively? 

• Prove feasibility through virtual computer aided rendering, and rapid prototyping 

• What will it cost to produce it? 

Testing the Concept by asking a sample of prospective customers what they think of the idea. Usually via Choice Modeling. With a few ideas in hand the marketer now attempts to obtain initial feedback from customers, distributors and its own employees. Generally, focus groups are convened where the ideas are presented to a group, often in the form of concept board presentations (i.e., storyboards) and not in actual working form. For instance, customers may be shown a concept board displaying drawings of a product idea or even an advertisement featuring the product. In some cases focus groups are exposed to a mock-up of the ideas, which is a physical but generally non-functional version of product idea. During focus groups with customers the marketer seeks information that may include: likes and dislike of the concept; level of interest in purchasing the product; frequency of purchase (used to help forecast demand); and price points to determine how much customers are willing to spend to acquire the product. By creating the concept of new product we have able to make a physical body of the product.

 Business Analysis

•  Estimate likely selling price based upon competition and customer feedback

•  Estimate sales volume based upon size of market and such tools as the Fourt- Woodlock equation

We determine the profit at the last so the company took the decision to go to the next step of the product development.

Product & marketing mix development 

Ideas passing through business analysis are given serious consideration for development. Companies direct their research and development teams to construct an initial design or prototype of the idea. Marketers also begin to construct a marketing plan for the product. Once the prototype is ready the marketer seeks customer input. However, unlike the concept testing stage where customers were only exposed to the idea, in this step the customer gets to experience the real product as well as other aspects of the marketing mix, such as advertising, pricing, and distribution options (e.g., retail store, direct from company, etc.). Favorable customer reaction helps solidify the marketer’s decision to introduce the product and also provides other valuable information such as estimated purchase rates and understanding how the product will be used by the customer. Reaction that is less favorable may suggest the need for adjustments to elements of the marketing mix. Once these are made the marketer may again have the customer test the product. 

In addition to gaining customer feedback, this step is used to gauge the feasibility of large-scale, cost effective production for manufactured products.

Estimate profitability and break-even point. At this point in the new product development process the marketer has reduced a potentially large number of ideas down to one or two options. Now in Step 4 the process becomes very dependent on market research as efforts are made to analyze the viability of the product ideas. (Note, in many cases the product has not been produced and still remains only an idea.) The key objective at this stage is to obtain useful forecasts of market size (e.g., overall demand), operational costs (e.g., production costs) and financial projections (e.g., sales and profits). Additionally, the organization must determine if the product will fit within the company’s overall mission and strategy. Much effort is directed at both internal research, such as discussions with production and purchasing personnel, and external marketing research, such as customer and distributor surveys, secondary research, and competitor analysis. Here we have analyzed about the price, profit.

Marketing mix indicates 4ps such as here we have to consider about the product, place, price & promotion. Either the marketing Mix is Successful or not it is depends upon here. We have to determine the manufacturing cost of the dress, we have to develop the product, have to select the appropriate market & ensure the product promotion very much.

Beta Testing and Market Testing 

• Produce a physical prototype or mock-up

• Test the product (and its packaging) in typical usage situations

• Conduct focus group customer interviews or introduce at trade show

• Make adjustments where necessary

• In the market testing we have to test the product by some distinguish marketing policy.

• By doing this test we come to know about the market response of the product.

• In this case for our product we have to give our product to the fashion house for beta testing.

Produce an initial run of the product and sell it in a test market area to determine customer acceptance Products surviving to Step 6 are ready to be tested as real products. In some cases the marketer accepts what was learned from concept testing and skips over market testing to launch the idea as a fully marketed product. But other companies may seek more input from a larger group before moving to commercialization. The most common type of market testing makes the product available to a selective small segment of the target market (e.g., one city), which is exposed to the full marketing effort as they would be to any product they could purchase. In some cases, especially with consumer products sold at retail stores, the marketer must work hard to get the product into the test market by convincing distributors to agree to purchase and place the product on their store shelves. In more controlled test markets distributors may be paid a fee if they agree to place the product on their shelves to allow for testing. Another form of market testing found with consumer products is even more controlled with customers recruited to a “laboratory” store where they are given shopping instructions. Product interest can then be measured based on customer’s shopping response. Finally, there are several high-tech approaches to market testing including virtual reality and computer simulations. With virtual reality testing customers are exposed to a computer-projected environment, such as a store, and are asked to locate and select products. With computer simulations customers may not be directly involved at all. Instead certain variables are entered into a sophisticated computer program and estimates of a target market’s response are calculated.

Commercialization (often considered post-NPD)

For commercializing our product, as it is a dress product so, it needs to introduce in the market, first of all and then nee to be the lot of advertising for promotion of the products. Some fashion show may be arranged to introduce the product to the target customer.

•  Launch the product

• Produce and place advertisements and other promotions

• Fill the distribution pipeline with product

Critical path analysis is most useful at this stage If market testing displays promising results the product is ready to be introduced to a wider market. Some firms introduce or roll-out the product in waves with parts of the market receiving the product on different schedules. This allows the company to ramp up production in a more controlled way and to fine tune the marketing mix as the product is distributed to new areas.