Technical problems and solutions involved in garments Manufacturing

Garments Sewing Technical Problems & Solutions

Maruf Mahfuz

Cell no: 01738676060
Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com

Department of textile Engineering

World university of Bangladesh

Types of seam:

There may be hundreds of types of seams. but mainly 8 types of seams are used in garments making which are as follows:

1) Class-1: super imposed seam

2) Class-2: lapped seam

3) Class-3: bound seam

4) Class-4: flat seam

5) Class-5: decorative seam

6) Class-6: edge neating

7) Class-7: no descriptive name

8) Class-8: no descriptive name

1) Class-1(super imposed seam):

This is the most common garments. The simplest seam type within this class is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of material on another. A Varity of stitch types can be used on this type of seam both for joining the fabric and for neating the edge or for achieving both simultaneously. Especially it is used in seam of shirt & trousers.

2) Class-2: (lapped seam):

This simplest type of seam of this class is formed by lapping two pieces of fabrics. The advantages & disadvantages of this type of seam are as follows

• Advantages:

1. As the selvedge of fabrics are best inward. The possibility of withdrawal of thread from the selvedge is low. Hence the strength and durability of seam is increased.
2. The possibility of seam slippage is very less

• Disadvantages:

1. Seam thickness is increased.
Use: For decorative effect on jacket and also used in jeans

3) Class-3(bound seam):

In this class, the seam consists of an edge of material which is bound by other. into the binding, the other material may be inserted for achieving an effect of design. Generally a contrasting colored fabric is used for edge binding. In figure (a) the simplest bound seam is shown which is not used in garments manufacturing. Because here fraying occurs in the fabric. The seam is shown in figure (b) is extensively used in garment in both functional and decorative purposes. For producing bound seam folding device is used in sewing machine. Bound seam is generally used in t-shirts, underwear, pants, sleeping suits etc.

4) Class-4 (flat seam):

This class of seam is called flat seam because the two fabric edges do not overlap. Sometimes, for decorative purpose a gap is kept between two edges and then seam is formed. Generally twin needle sewing machines are used for sewing flat seam. This class of seam is used in knitted garments and underwear as their thickness is less.

5) Class-5 (decorative seam):

Previously this class of seam was not regarded as seam and was given the name “stitching”. The main use of this seam is for decorative sewing on garments where one or more rows of stitches are sewn.

6) Class-6(Edge neating):

Seam types in this class include those where fabric edge are knitted by means of stitches. This is done for preventing fraying of threads of fabric from edges.the simplest type of edge neating is done by over lock machine. The using of folder may make the sewing easy. Various types of stitches can be for producing this class of seam.

7) Class-7:

Seams of these classes add separate items to the edge of a garment part. They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides. This type of seam may be used to attach lace or elastic on the edge of fabric. Here a twin needle sewing machine with a folder is used

8) Class-8:

In this seam class only one piece of material is used to construct the seam. The most common seam type in this class is the belt loop as used in jeans, raincoats etc.

Stitch

• Every unit of a seam line formed by interloping, intralooping or interlacing of one or more threads is called stitch. 
• When one loop of a thread is passed through another loop of seam thread, it is called intralooping. 
• When one loop of a thread is passed through another loop of another thread, it is called interloping. 
• When one loop of a thread is passed over another loop of another thread, it is called interlacing.

Stitch Classes: 

About 70 classes of stitch are found to be used. Among them only 18-20 types of stitches are extensively used in garments industry. All these types stitch are grouped in following 6 classes.

1. Stitch Class- 100(Chain Stitch) 
2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch) 
3. Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch) 
4. Stitch Class-400(Multi threaded chain stitch) 
5. Stitch Class-500(Over edge stitch) 
6. Stitch Class-600( Covering chain stitch)

(1) Stitch class-100(chain stitch):

Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle threads and are characterized by intralopping. One needle thread is passed through the fabric, from needle loop and secured by next loop formed by the same thread. Thus stitches are produced. This type of stitches i.e. chain stitch is very insecure. In case of breakage any stitch, it unravels very easily. The most common type of stitch of this stitch class-100 is type-101.as it is very insecure, it is generally used for temporary joining, positioning, button holing & button attaching.

(2) Stitch class-200(hand stitch):

The stitches of this class are originated as hand stitches. It produced from a single thread. This thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the material. Hand stitch is time consuming and costly operation which needs high skill for good appearance. Stitch type-209 is used at the edge of jackets. For producing this stitch special type of needle having eye at the middle and sewing machine is used. The hand stitch machine is hot so fast.

(3) Stitch class-300(lock stitch):

These types of stitches are produced with two or more groups of threads. Here the two threads are joined by interlacing. Loops of one groups are passed. Through the material and are by the thread of second group. One group is normally referred to as the needle thread and the other as bobbin thread. This stitch has enough strength and can be stretched up to 30%. It has the same appearance on both sides of the fabric which is not available in other stitches. Lock stitch are also much secured. They do not unravel in case of yarn breakage. The thread in a lock stitch generally beds well into the fabric which improves its abrasion resistance. The disadvantages of this class of stitch is, here the bobbin contains less amount of yarn than needle thread package. So the bobbin runs out during sewing. So the threading of bobbin is time consuming

(4) Stitch class-400 (multithread chain stitch):

This class of stitch is formed with two or more groups of thread. Loops of one group of thread are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interloping with loops of other groups. Here one group of thread is called needle thread and the other is called looper thread.

The most common and mostly used type of stitch of this class is stitch type – 401 which is produced by one needle thread and one looper thread.

(5) Stitch class-500(over lock stitch):

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads. Here at least one group of thread passes around the edge of material. So no thread from the fabric edge can come out. The most frequently used stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric. A trimming knife of the machine ensures a head prior to sewing.

(6) Stitch class-600(covering chain stitch):

These types of stitches are generally produced with 3 groups of threads. Threads of two groups can be seen from either side. The first group of thread is called needle thread, second group of thread is called top cover thread and the third group of thread is called bottom cover thread. The stitch of this class is very complex and up to 9 threads can be used.

This type of stitches is used in knitted garments, attaching laces, braids and elastic in garments.

Sewing problem:

Stitch, seam feed system; needle and thread together determines the seam appearance & performance. The problems which arise when material are sewn vary in their seriousness. Some are major problems which cannot be over locked and for these garments will be rejected by the inspector, where as someone minor problem which are negligible in low quality garments.

The sewing problems are as follows:

1. Problems of stitch formation.

(a) Slipped / skipped stitch

(b) Staggered stitch

(c) Unbalanced stitch

(d) Variable stitch density.

(e) Needles thread breakage.

(f) Frequent bobbin thread breakage

2. Problems of fabric distortion known as pucker or pucker problem.

(a) Seam pucker due to differential fabric stretch

(b) Dimensional instability of fabric

(c) Shrinkage of sewing thread

(d) Seam pucker due to fabric construction

(e) Seam pucker due to miss- matched patter

3. Problems of damage of fabric along the stitch line / fabric damage problem

(a) Mechanical damage

(b) Needle heating damage

1) Problems of stitch formation:

a) Slipped stitch:

If the continuation of stitches in a seam line is hampered by slipping some stitches it is called slipped or skipped stitch

Causes	Remedies
Hook or looper is not able to hold the needle loop.	Þ    Timing of hook or looper with needle should be appropriate. Þ    Replace the needle position correctly.
Loop size of needle thread is small.	Adjust needle & thread size.
Tension variation in looper & needle thread.	Adjust tension.

b) Staggered stitch

If the stitches produced by needle are not Parallel with the seam line they are called staggered stitch

Causes	Remedies
Needle deflection / vibration.	Þ    Needle size should be increased. Þ    Used tapper needle.
Faulty movement of feed dog.	Þ    Correct the feed dog motion.
Incorrect controlling of fabric into the feed mechanism.	Þ    Adjust the pressure of pressure foot. Þ    Change feed mechanism.
Due to lose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.	Þ    Assuring tight fitting of needle inside the needle bar

c) Unbalanced stitch:

Generally found in lock stitch. If the interlacement of the needle thread and bobbin thread does not take place at the middle of two layers of fabric unbalanced stitch is produced.

Causes	Remedies
Incorrect tension of sewing thread	Adjust thread tension
Incorrect passage of thread through the guide	Correct the passage of thread.

d) Variable stitch density: 

It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitch density and their remedies are mentioned below

Causes	Remedies
Insufficient pressure of pressure foot, causing uneven feeding of the fabric through the machine	Correct pressure
Materials of sticky or slippery surface	Increase pressure

e) Needle thread breakage:

Causes	Remedies
Improper unwinding of thread from package.	Place the package correctly so that unwinding can be performed easily.
Thread twisted in the guide.	Guide the thread correctly through the guide.
higher thread tension	Reduce tension in tension disc
Sharp edges of hook point, needle eye, bobbin case etc	Polish the sharp edges
Excess needle heating	Use higher quality needle / use lubricant
Lower quality of thread	Change thread

f) Frequent bobbin thread breakage:

Causes	Remedies
Faulty winding of thread in bobbin	Adjust bobbin winder correctly
Higher tension of bobbin thread	Reduce tension
Sharp edge of bobbin case	Polish the sharp edge
Improper fitting of bobbin case	Bobbin dimension should be checked
Bobbin or bobbin case may worn out	Change or repair bobbin

2) Problems of fabric distortion known as pucker or pucker problem:

Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam when compared to a smooth fabric. 

Causes of seam pucker discussed below:

a) Seam pucker due to differential fabric stretch:

The prime requirement of feeding system is that it should move the plies of fabric past the needle and that all the plies should move together. But because of some reason if there is unequal stretch between the layers of fabric, then feeding of one layer becomes more than the other layer giving a rise to seam pucker.To remove feeding pucker the feed mechanism of the machine should be changed.

b) Dimensional instability of fabric:

When two or more than two layers of fabric are sewn and if one layer shrinks more than other after washing, seam pucker is seen. Hence before sewing two or more layers of fabrics, the potential shrinkage property should be considered.

c) Shrinkage of sewing thread:

If the sewing thread shrinkage, then seam pucker is occurred. This type of seam pucker is seen after washing on ironing. Before sewing the shrinkage potential of both the thread and fabric should be known. Synthetic threads have negligible wet shrinkage and should be used to remove the problem.

d) Seam pucker due to fabric construction:

In a compact fabric having high EPI & PPI, there is very little space left between the warp and weft yarns. While sewing such fabrics the threads are displaced around the needle and because of lack of space, pucker may be seen along the holes created by the needle. Such type of seam pucker is very difficult to remove but following steps may be taken:

• By using fine needle and fine thread.
• Reduction of stitch density.
• By changing the fabric it is possible.

e) Seam pucker due to miss-matched pattern:

If two pattern pieces of unequal length are joined, then one is joined with another by creating construction. This causes seam pucker. Mainly this type of problem is occurred due to designer fault.

3) Problems of damage of fabric along the stitch line / fabric damage problem:

The problem of fabric damage along the stitch line is mainly because of the use of unsuitable needle, sewing unsuitable fabrics or combination of both, there are two types of fabric damage because of needle

a) Mechanical damage.

b) Needle heating damage.

a) Mechanical damage:

Any damage of fiber on yarn of fabric by needle. 

To minimize the possibility precautions are:

• Needle size and point should be properly selected and needle should be free from damage or bending.
• Machine speed should be reduced.
• Application of lubricant which are spacing along the stitch line before sewing.
• Fabric sew ability test for specific or sensitive fabric should be done before sewing.

b) Needle heating damage:

Needle heating occurs as a result of friction between the needle & thread and between needle & fabric during sewing. The temperature may be 300°c to 350°c. At that temperature needle or fabric or both may be changed. In case of thread and fabric containing natural fiber has less possibility of damage. But synthetic fibers will melt at such high temperature. The damages are prevented by doing following apparatus:

• Speed: Slowing down the sewing speed to decrease the heat generation at the needle.
• Needle size and shape: By using finer needle, the temperature can be reduced.
• Cool air: By the flow of cool air through the needle, the temperature can be reduced to 70°c
• Lubrication: If lubrication is done along the seam line on thread and on needle the heat generation due to friction is reduced considerably.
• Sewing length: For long length sewing machine speed is required to drop & vice-versa.

Garments Manufacturing Process Sequence

Sequence of garments manufacturing

Maruf Mahfuz
Operations Officer
H.R Textile Mills Limited, Pride Group
Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com
Cell no: 01738676060

1. Design/ Sketch: 

 It in given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurement of all components.
2. Basic Block:  

Basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

3. Working Pattern: 

The pattern set which is used for sample making is called working pattern.
4. Sample Making: 

 After getting all the specification the sample is mode and sent to the buyer for approval or to rectify the faults.
5. Basic Manufacturing Difficulties:  

The critical path is identified, that is the problems during production are simplified.
6. Approved Sample:  

After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyer, If it is OK then it is called approved sample.
7. Costing: 

 fabric consumption, making charge, Trimmings, Profit.
8. Production Pattern: 

 Add allowance with set dimension.
9. Grading:  

By following working pattern approved sample is made for medium size. It the buyer require different size. We have to grade the dimension. It may be S, L, M, XL, XXL, etc.
10. Marker Making: 

 Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style.
11. Fabric Spreading: 

 To spread the fabric on the cutting table properly for cutting.
12. Cutting:  

To cut fabric according to marker dimension.
13. Sorting & Bundling:  

Sorting out the component according to size & for each size make individual bundle.
14. Sewing: 

Sewing is done by different types of machine by the operator. Quality inspection is also done in that time.
15. Ironing & Finishing:  

Garments are treated by steam. Also several finishing process are done for example- extra loom thread cutting.
16. Final Inspection: Should meet specification given by buyers
17. Packing:   Poly packing
18. Cartoning:  

After packing the garments are placed in a hand paper box for export so as to minimize damage. The cartoons contain all the information over the box according to buyer’s instruction.
19. Sent to Buyers: 

 If everything is OK. It is sent to the Buyers.

Different Sections in a garments Industry

There are mainly four sections in a garments industry.

• Sample section
• Cutting section
• Sewing section
• Finishing Section

(1) Sample section: this section includes designing to marker making. The main function of this section is to make approved sample.
(2) Cutting section: This section includes process starting from “marker making to sorting & bundling” to cut fabric according to marker dimension is the main function of this section.
(3) Sewing section: This section includes only sewing. The function of this section is to make complete garments by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.
(4) Finishing Section: This section includes process from “Ironing to sent to buyer’s, after making garments. It should treated by steam. Iron & use in it all of the finishing accessories & ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyer’s approved sample.

Some Definitions & Terms

Sample Garments:

Before going to star bulk production at first we have to make small quantity of garments which is sent to buyer for approval, these garments are called Sample garments.
Sample is always make upon medium size & it is quantity is at least 3-5 pieces or as per buyer’s requirements.

Approved Sample:

The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Counter Sample:

 To run the production smoothly we made the some Extra sample. Which represents 100% same as approved sample this is called Counter Sample.

Product Package: 

Product Package is a sheet or no. of sheets which includes the following

• Design / Sketch
• Specification sheet or Measurement sheet
• Label Positioning
• Accessories required
• Stitch type

Pattern: 

Pattern is the replica of various separate components of a garment. These patterns are placed on fabric or on this paper (marker paper) to associate in fabric cutting.

Working Pattern:

The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern.
It is made for a particular style with net dimension working pattern is also called garments pattern.

Production pattern:

 production pattern is the patterns made for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

Marker: 

Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garment in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.

Numbering: 

The process of identifying different fabric lay in a fabric lay out by numbering (1, 2, 3……..) them is called Numbering.

Numbering is two Type:

Lay Numbering: for maintaining shade.
Pieces Numbering: to assemble to Specific Size.

Sewing: 

Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing is the way of joining of garments components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments assembling & still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam.

Objects of sewing: 

The objective of sewing is the construction of the seam of required standard and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.

Seam:  

Seam is the join between two or more plies of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but welding adhesive one often used for making seam.
In another way seam can be defined as seam is the application of a series of stitches on stitch type to one or several pitches of material.

Requirement of garments assembling/ sewing:

Cutting fabric components: 

All parts of a particular garment should at first be available before sewing.

Need same numbering cut pieces:  

At first all components of a particular lay of fabric should be given same number. For example, all the component of 3rd lay is given number 3 then the same numbered components are used for making a garment. That is number 3 pocket in joined with number 3 back part and with number 3 sleeves and so on. We should not joined a component of a lay with another component of different lay. This is maintained for avoiding shade variation in garment. Because the shade of fabric may differ from lay to lay and if such shade variation is occurred. The garment will be rejected.

DTM sewing thread:  

Dye to match (DTM) sewing thread is essential for sewing, because the colure of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye of both thread and fabric should be same. Otherwise are will be faded us before the other. After the sewing thread being available garment manufacturing is started.
All accessories must be available: For making garments several accessories are required. For example- Zipper, Button, Interlining etc are required. They should be available.

Proper needle selection: 

For sewing particular garment. Proper needle should be of proper size and point. For sewing knitted fabric the needle should be of ball point and for sewing woven fabric shaped V- pointed needle should be used.

Seam Performance:

Performance of seam means the achievement of perfect strength, elasticity, durability, security & comfort along with any special fabric properties like flammability & waterproofing. Performance of seam means achievement of following qualities..

• Seam strength
• Seam elasticity
• Seam durability
• Security of seam
• Comfort of seam

1) Seam strength:

Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than the fabric strength then the fabric may tear due to unexpected force applied or the fabric seam strength depends on

• Strength of the thread used.
• Stitch density.
• Seam type.

2) Seam Elasticity: 

The seam should be equal or higher elastic then the fabric, otherwise when force will be applied fabric will be stretched more than the sewing thread & sewing thread may tear and seam may be opened. Seam elasticity varies depending on the types of fabric. That is knitted or woven.

3) Seam Durability:

Durability of seam should be equal or higher than the fabric, especially the seam should not be damaged or worm out due to friction and while cleaning.

4) Security of Seam:

While using the garments, the seam thread should not be torn or opened.

5) Comfortness of seam:

In close fitting or undergarments, seam must not present an uncomfortable ridge or roughness to the skin.

Seam Allowance:  

A predetermined amount of fabric between the edge of component parts of the garments and the seam line. Too small a seam allowance greatly reduces the seam strength. A seam allowance is measured from the cut-edge of fabric to the main line of stitches. Excessive seam allowance results in fabric wastage.

New Product Development- Part 1

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Maruf Mahfuz 

Operations officer

H.R Textile Mills Limited, Pride Group.

Cell no: 01738676060 

Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com

In business and engineering, new product development (NPD) is the term used to describe the complete process of bringing a new product to market. A product is a set of benefits offered for exchange and can be tangible (that is, something physical you can touch) or intangible (like a service, experience, or belief). There are two parallel paths involved in the NPD process: one involves the idea generation, product design and detail engineering; the other involves market research and marketing analysis. Companies typically see new product development as the first stage in generating and commercializing new products within the overall strategic process of product life cycle management used to maintain or grow their market share.

New Product Development Process .

Introducing new products on a consistent basis is important to the future success of many organizations, marketers in charge of product decisions often follow set procedures for bringing products to market. In the scientific area that may mean the establishment of ongoing laboratory research programs for discovering new products (e.g., medicines) while less scientific companies may pull together resources for product development on a less structured time-table.

In this section we present a 7-step process comprising the key elements of new product development. While some companies may not follow a deliberate step-by-step approach, the steps are useful in showing the information input and decision making that must be done in order to successfully develop new products. The process also shows the importance market research plays in developing products.

We should note that while the 7-step process works for most industries, it is less effective in developing radically new products. The main reason lies in the inability of the target market to provide sufficient feedback on advanced product concepts since they often find it difficult to understand radically different ideas. So while many of these steps are used to research breakthrough ideas, the marketer should exercise caution when interpreting the results. 

Process of new product development

Idea Generation► Idea screening ►Concept Development & Testing ►Marketing Strategy ►Business analysis ►Product Development ►Test marketing ►Commercialization.

Our selected Product :

Name: Kolaveri D
Type : (Ladies Dress).
Target Customer: Young ladies (age between16-25).
Target Area: Dhaka & Divisional city. 

Idea Generation

First of all we have taken a lot of idea by the determination of public response from the various classes of people. Then we are gone for our natural process of new product development. We have gathered a lot of idea such as-

- Chikni chameli (Ladies dress - Lehanga).

-Body Tex (Mens wear Like Ankhon suit).
-Kolaveri D (Ladies dress like a Gown in lower part, upper part with a Hoody top made by jeans fabric).
-Kuhelika (Teenage tops)
-Rimjhim (Upper part like frock and lower part like saree).

Idea Generation is often called the "fuzzy front end" of the NPD process. Ideas for new products can be obtained from basic research using a SWOT analysis (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities & Threats), Market and consumer trends, company's R&D department, competitors, focus groups, employees, salespeople, corporate spies, trade shows, or Ethnographic discovery methods (searching for user patterns and habits) may also be used to get an insight into new product lines or product features. Regarding to this process we have done a SWOT analysis to find out our desired idea by researching from our Human resource development.
Lots of ideas are being generated about the new product. Out of these ideas many ideas are being implemented. The ideas use to generate in many forms and their generating places are also various. Many reasons are responsible for generation of an idea.
Idea Generation or Brainstorming of new product, service, or store concepts - idea generation techniques can begin when you have done your opportunity analysis to support your ideas in the Idea Screening Phase (shown in the next development step). 

The first step of new product development requires gathering ideas to be evaluated as potential product options. For many companies idea generation is an ongoing process with contributions from inside and outside the organization. Many market research techniques are used to encourage ideas including: running focus groups with consumers, channel members, and the company’s sales force; encouraging customer comments and suggestions via toll-free telephone numbers and website forms; and gaining insight on competitive product developments through secondary data sources. One important research technique used to generate ideas is brainstorming where open-minded, creative thinkers from inside and outside the company gather and share ideas. The dynamic nature of group members floating ideas, where one idea often sparks another idea, can yield a wide range of possible products that can be further pursue. 

Idea Screening

The object is to eliminate unsound concepts prior to devoting resources to them.
The screeners should ask several questions:

• Will the customer in the target market benefit from the product? 

• What is the size and growth forecasts of the market segment/target market? 

• What is the current or expected competitive pressure for the product idea? 

•  What are the industry sales and market trends the product idea is based on? 

•  Is it technically feasible to manufacture the product? 

• Will the product be profitable when manufactured and delivered to the customer at the target price? 

By analyzing the above question we have decided to choose the product called “Kolaveri D”.

Depending on the number of ideas, screening may be done in rounds with the first round involving company executives judging the feasibility of ideas while successive rounds may utilize more advanced research techniques. As the ideas are whittled down to a few attractive options, rough estimates are made of an idea’s potential in terms of sales, production costs, profit potential, and competitors’ response if the product is introduced.

Concept Development and Testing

Here we have to make a physical or practical body of the concept on the basis of following points.
Develop the marketing and engineering details. Investigate intellectual property issues and search patent data bases.

• Who is the target market and who is the decision maker in the purchasing process? 

• What product features must the product incorporate? 

• What benefits will the product provide? 

• How will consumers react to the product? 

• How will the product be produced most cost effectively? 

• Prove feasibility through virtual computer aided rendering, and rapid prototyping 

• What will it cost to produce it? 

Testing the Concept by asking a sample of prospective customers what they think of the idea. Usually via Choice Modeling. With a few ideas in hand the marketer now attempts to obtain initial feedback from customers, distributors and its own employees. Generally, focus groups are convened where the ideas are presented to a group, often in the form of concept board presentations (i.e., storyboards) and not in actual working form. For instance, customers may be shown a concept board displaying drawings of a product idea or even an advertisement featuring the product. In some cases focus groups are exposed to a mock-up of the ideas, which is a physical but generally non-functional version of product idea. During focus groups with customers the marketer seeks information that may include: likes and dislike of the concept; level of interest in purchasing the product; frequency of purchase (used to help forecast demand); and price points to determine how much customers are willing to spend to acquire the product. By creating the concept of new product we have able to make a physical body of the product.

 Business Analysis

•  Estimate likely selling price based upon competition and customer feedback

•  Estimate sales volume based upon size of market and such tools as the Fourt- Woodlock equation

We determine the profit at the last so the company took the decision to go to the next step of the product development.

Product & marketing mix development 

Ideas passing through business analysis are given serious consideration for development. Companies direct their research and development teams to construct an initial design or prototype of the idea. Marketers also begin to construct a marketing plan for the product. Once the prototype is ready the marketer seeks customer input. However, unlike the concept testing stage where customers were only exposed to the idea, in this step the customer gets to experience the real product as well as other aspects of the marketing mix, such as advertising, pricing, and distribution options (e.g., retail store, direct from company, etc.). Favorable customer reaction helps solidify the marketer’s decision to introduce the product and also provides other valuable information such as estimated purchase rates and understanding how the product will be used by the customer. Reaction that is less favorable may suggest the need for adjustments to elements of the marketing mix. Once these are made the marketer may again have the customer test the product. 

In addition to gaining customer feedback, this step is used to gauge the feasibility of large-scale, cost effective production for manufactured products.

Estimate profitability and break-even point. At this point in the new product development process the marketer has reduced a potentially large number of ideas down to one or two options. Now in Step 4 the process becomes very dependent on market research as efforts are made to analyze the viability of the product ideas. (Note, in many cases the product has not been produced and still remains only an idea.) The key objective at this stage is to obtain useful forecasts of market size (e.g., overall demand), operational costs (e.g., production costs) and financial projections (e.g., sales and profits). Additionally, the organization must determine if the product will fit within the company’s overall mission and strategy. Much effort is directed at both internal research, such as discussions with production and purchasing personnel, and external marketing research, such as customer and distributor surveys, secondary research, and competitor analysis. Here we have analyzed about the price, profit.

Marketing mix indicates 4ps such as here we have to consider about the product, place, price & promotion. Either the marketing Mix is Successful or not it is depends upon here. We have to determine the manufacturing cost of the dress, we have to develop the product, have to select the appropriate market & ensure the product promotion very much.

Beta Testing and Market Testing 

• Produce a physical prototype or mock-up

• Test the product (and its packaging) in typical usage situations

• Conduct focus group customer interviews or introduce at trade show

• Make adjustments where necessary

• In the market testing we have to test the product by some distinguish marketing policy.

• By doing this test we come to know about the market response of the product.

• In this case for our product we have to give our product to the fashion house for beta testing.

Produce an initial run of the product and sell it in a test market area to determine customer acceptance Products surviving to Step 6 are ready to be tested as real products. In some cases the marketer accepts what was learned from concept testing and skips over market testing to launch the idea as a fully marketed product. But other companies may seek more input from a larger group before moving to commercialization. The most common type of market testing makes the product available to a selective small segment of the target market (e.g., one city), which is exposed to the full marketing effort as they would be to any product they could purchase. In some cases, especially with consumer products sold at retail stores, the marketer must work hard to get the product into the test market by convincing distributors to agree to purchase and place the product on their store shelves. In more controlled test markets distributors may be paid a fee if they agree to place the product on their shelves to allow for testing. Another form of market testing found with consumer products is even more controlled with customers recruited to a “laboratory” store where they are given shopping instructions. Product interest can then be measured based on customer’s shopping response. Finally, there are several high-tech approaches to market testing including virtual reality and computer simulations. With virtual reality testing customers are exposed to a computer-projected environment, such as a store, and are asked to locate and select products. With computer simulations customers may not be directly involved at all. Instead certain variables are entered into a sophisticated computer program and estimates of a target market’s response are calculated.

Commercialization (often considered post-NPD)

For commercializing our product, as it is a dress product so, it needs to introduce in the market, first of all and then nee to be the lot of advertising for promotion of the products. Some fashion show may be arranged to introduce the product to the target customer.

•  Launch the product

• Produce and place advertisements and other promotions

• Fill the distribution pipeline with product

Critical path analysis is most useful at this stage If market testing displays promising results the product is ready to be introduced to a wider market. Some firms introduce or roll-out the product in waves with parts of the market receiving the product on different schedules. This allows the company to ramp up production in a more controlled way and to fine tune the marketing mix as the product is distributed to new areas.

Overview on Textile Printing

Printing Technique 

Maruf Mahfuz (WUB), Mohammad Asif Hossain (BUTex), 

Kazi Sabbir Ahmad (AUST), Mosfiqur Rahman (EWU),
 Ruhul Amin (NTEC)

Management Trainee Officer

Pride Group, Savar Dhaka.

Introduction 

Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. 

In properly printed fabrics the color is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. 

Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color, in printing one or more colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

History of Printing

The exact origin of textile printing is difficult to determine. However, a number of early civilizations developed various techniques for imparting color and design to textile garments. Batik is a modern art form for developing unique dyed patterns on textile fabrics very similar to textile printing. Batik is characterized by unique patterns and color combinations as well as the appearance of fracture lines due to the cracking of the wax during the dyeing process. Batik is derived from the Japanese term, “Ambatik,” which means “dabbing,” “writing,” or “drawing.” In Egypt, records from 23-79 AD describe a hot wax technique similar to batik. The early Egyptians also used ink-carved designs on the ends of wooden cylinders to print on fabrics as early as 400 AD. In Europe, the earliest evidence of textile printing is provided by a wooden block discovered in France dated to the end of the 14th century. The family name “Tuchdruckers” or “textile printers” was well known in Germany by 1440. In the United States, woodcut block printing was practiced in Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania by the 1770’s. A tremendous breakthrough occurred in 1783 when James Bell, a Scotsman, invented engraved roller printing.

Process of Direct printing

In fabric printing, a decorative pattern or design is applied to constructed fabric by roller, flat screen, or rotary screen methods.

Roller Printing

In the roller printing process, print paste is applied to an engraved roller, and the fabric is guided between it and a central cylinder. The pressure of the roller and central cylinder forces the print paste into the fabric. Because of the high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most appealing method for printing designer and fashion apparel fabrics.

Screen printing

In flat screen printing, a screen on which print paste has been applied is lowered onto a section of fabric. A squeezer then moves across the screen, forcing the print paste through the screen and into the fabric.

Rotary Screen printing

In rotary screen printing, tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric. Print paste distributed inside the tubular screen is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt). Rotary screen printing machines are used mostly but not exclusively for bottom weight apparel fabrics or fabric not for apparel use. Host knit fabric is printed by the rotary screen method, because it does not stress (pull or stretch) the fabric during the process.

Screen Preparation 

To be considered:
•Mesh size selection
•Types of printing
•No of color on design
•Area of design
•Uniform tension

•Proper attachment of screen with frame

Color room functions

Factors to be considered for selection of printing technique:

• Color of the Fabric (Dark, Light).
• In case of Dark/ deep color mainly used discharge printing.
• In case of light color pigment print is preferable. In case of flock print on dark color a rubber made base is used.

Printing paste preparation

Pigment printing paste

•BR 1000 (Binder +Thickener)
•Pigment
• Fixing agent (Only for Acid wash, Enzyme wash)

Discharge printing paste

•Flurotex DBC for color discharge
•BW for white Discharge
• RNS powder
•Color

Rubber printing paste

•White 101 for white rubber
•Clear 594 for color rubber
•MK binder

Overview on different Printing

Pigment printing:

Pigments are mainly synthetic organic materials. Pigment printing is done to produce attractive design by applying pigment paste on the fabric surface. Pigments are found in particle state and the particle size range should be in the region of 0.1 – 3 microns. Pigment printing is done with binder system. We know that pigment has no affinity to cotton fabric for this reason binder is required during printing.

Flow chart of pigment printing 

Paste preparation 

↓ 

Table preparation/ Machine preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen 

↓ 

Curing at 150 ºc (belt speed 5 m/min)

Advantages & Disadvantages of Pigment printing

Advantages  

•Applicable to natural and synthetic fiber.
•Pigment printing is most economical printing process and allows maximum output of goods because of the elimination of washing off, quick sampling and high printing speeds.
•The advantage of pigment printing is that the process can be done without subsequent washing.
•Simple Application Simple technical process without wet after treatment
•Little requirements for machinery equipment

Disadvantage

•Handling properties of the pigment printing is rough because of having excessive cross linking agents.
•During second time printing it has very low effect that is not desirable

Discharge Printing 

Discharge means to remove specific colored area by another color or reducing it by bleaching agent. By this printing process, color is destroyed by one or multiple color. By this process pigment in the fabrics is removed chemically and replace it by another color. The dyed fabrics dyes should be dischargeable during printing process.

Paste preparation (White paste/ Color paste) 

↓ 

Table preparation/ Machine preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen 

↓ 

Curing at 150 ºc – 180 ºc (belt speed 5 m/min)

Advantages & disadvantages of discharge printing:

Advantages 

It enables light, brighter colors to be obtained on a dark ground.

•Very sharp features like fine outlines, dots, raster etc., can be produced with total clarity.

•Tinting of white pattern on coloured ground (In case of direct style) is avoided by discharge printing.

•The effect, clarity, distinction, richness and aesthetic appeal obtained add value for discharge printing

Disadvantages

•It is an expensive process. Two stage application involved in dyeing or padding and discharge printing.
•Limited choice of ground and motif colours.
• Requires rigid process care that any default will lead to damages.

Rubber Printing

A very common and versatile material that is used to print to garment due to its ability to adhere well to fabric. It can apply to most fabric materials in light or dark colours. The texture feels thick and tensile. A special rubber formulation has to be made in order to apply this print to elastic material.

Rubber printing Process 

Table preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Rubber printing paste apply with the help of screen 

↓ 

Curing at 150ºc (Belt speed 5 m/min) 

↓ 

Delivery

Plastisol Printing 

PLASTISOL PRINTING PROCESS 

Printing paste preparation 

↓ 

Table preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

High-density paste apply by screen 

↓ 

Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 5m/min) 

↓ 

Delivery 

Advantages & Disadvantages of plastisol printing 

Advantages 

•Plastisol can be left in the screen for extended periods of time without clogging the mesh.
•It is ready to use right out of the container more than 90% of the time.
•In most applications, it can be printed wet-on-wet, which allows for increased production speeds.
•It comes in formulations that can be printed on light and dark color fabrics
•And, in most municipalities, the disposal of waste plastisol is a very simple process.

Disadvantages

•Since Plastisol is a thermoplastic, it will remelt if it comes in contact with anything hot enough. For that reason, plastisol prints cannot be ironed.
•If an iron touches a print, it will smear the ink.
•Plastisol ink also creates an ink film that can be felt with the hand. The higher the opacity of the ink, the greater the hand. This heavy hand is considered a disadvantage at the consumer level.

Characteristics of Different types of Printing 

Process Printing 

Process color printing, is known at four-color process printing, is a method that reproduces finished full-color artwork and photographs. The three primary colors used are cyan (process blue), magenta (process red), and yellow. These inks are translucent and are used to simulate different colors. The "K" in CMYK is black. Black ink is used to create fine detail and strong shadows.

Process printing flow chart 

Paste preparation 

↓ 

Table preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Printing paste is applied through 4 different screens on the fabric 

↓ 

Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 5m/min) 

↓ 

Delivery

Foil printing

Foil printing is a sublimation transfer printing process. Foil printing is done by the help of paper. Foil paper is solid color which is made by buyer requirement. Printing is done in high temperature and pressure. By this printing process man-made and natural both fabric types can be print.

Foil printing flow chart 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Foil gun / Foil paste (Gum)apply by screen 

↓ 

Dry slightly in air temp / Hand dryer 

↓ 

Apply foil paper on the fabric 

↓ 

Heat apply by heat press m/c 150 ºc for 5 sec) 

↓ 

Cooling for 4 sec 

↓ 

Foil paper removed by hand 

↓ 

 Delivery

Flock printing 

Flock printing is done by depositing various flocks on the surface of the fabric. Flocks means small finely cut natural or synthetic fibers. This flocks are applied on an adhesive coated surface for impart a decorative or functional characteristics to the surface of the fabric.

Flock printing flow chart 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Apply flock paste with the help of screen 

↓ 

Flock powder apply with the help of flock gun 

↓ 

Manually dry by hanging for 30min 

↓ 

Curing at 180ºc (belt speed 3 

m/min) 

↓ 

Delivery 

↓ 

Brushing 

↓ 

Delivery

Emboss printing 

Emboss printing is not as available as pigment printing, f oil printing, f lock printing or any others dyes printing. It is specially done f or logo making or others decorative purpose. In this printing process, printing is done by embossing the printing paste on the textile materials.

Process flow of puff printing

Paste preparation with puff chemical

↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Apply printing paste by screen (3 times)

↓

Hanging f or 15min

↓

Curing at 150 ºc (belt speed 3m/min)

↓

Delivery

Crack printing

Crack printing is a printing method to produce attractive design on the fabric surf ace. Here rubber is used as the printing paste. It is near similar as rubber printing process but additional crack paste is used before applying rubber printing paste by the screen printer on the cotton fabric. 

Crack printing flow

Print paste preparation with cracking chemical 

↓

Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen

↓

Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)

↓

Printing paste apply with the help of screen

↓

Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 2 m/min)

↓

Delivery

High density:

High density printing is done by more number of stroke to make the printed area thicker during printing. High density printing may be two types: Rubber base high density & Plastisol base high density.

High density printing flow 

Paste preparation 

↓ 

Table preparation 

↓ 

Fabric plaited on the table 

↓ 

Printing paste is applied through screen on the fabric & stroke repeatedly till the design is produced 

↓ 

Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 5m/min) 

↓ 

Delivery

Sublimation

Sublimation is a transfer printing process. It is pigment based printing. Any type of design having greater complexity can easily be developed on the fabric surface. Here, the printed design is transferred from paper to fabric surface through heat pressing. The sublimation printing process is based on CYMK theory.

 

Conclusion: 

The development of modern equipment and colorant technology has enabled textile manufacturers to be able to reproduce highly colored textile designs with excellent colorfastness. This can be performed on a wide variety of fibers and fabric constructions, employing cost effective processes. However, as good as textile-printing technology is today, the processes are continuing to improve. New technologies and new developments in existing methods promise to continue the expansion of the capabilities of textile printing well into the future.